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SHORWELL
An
ancient parish with a well preserved historical heritage
by
A
W Wakefield
WHICHEVER
WAY YOU GO to
Shorwell you will travel along beautiful country roads dropping down into
a hollow, for the village is encircled by hills. Any approach is pleasing,
but go, if you can, from the Carisbrooke side, and, as you pass through
the wooded shute, white with garlic in the late spring, and under the
rustic bridge, you will be delighted. Stop for a moment to look at the
thatched cottages by the green, and the solitary shop with its quaint
bow-windows. Then sit for a while in the garden of the Crown Inn. There
you may feed the ducks, listen to the cooing of the fantail pigeons, and,
if you can be there in early summer, enjoy the beauty of the arum lilies
massed on either side of the stream.
Four
ancient manor houses in one parish —
surely there
must be some mistake. But there they are, solid and tranquil, looking much
as they have looked for well over three hundred years. Billingham Manor,
once the home of J B Priestley, lies two miles away, separated from the
village by little Kingston, but the other three manors Northcourt,
Westcourt, and Woolverton are all close to the parish church, whose
fascinating history is bound up with their own.
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Oldest
of the three houses is Westcourt, on the road to Brighstone, and it
bears the date, 1579, above
one of its entrances. For many years the home of the Way family, its
sons were sent out to look after other family farms in the district,
and life must have been very confusing when the village charities
were administered by two churchwardens both named Henry Way.
Across
the fields from Westcourt lies Woolverton Manor, a brave effort on
the part of a yeoman farmer to keep up with his wealthy neighbours.
An earlier Woolverton stood to the north of the present house and
the course of its moat is clearly visible. But when building grand
houses became the fashion, John Dingley, the owner, made a reckless
bid to be like the rest. Stone was quarried from the grounds and a
house in typical late Elizabethan style was erected. The south wing
was completed, but the north side and the back of the house were
never finished off, and parts remain hollow shell to this day. Many
interesting families have lived at Woolverton and there are enough
stories of curses and hauntings to satisfy the most demanding lover
of the occult.
To
Shorwell in the middle of the sixteenth century came John —
later Sir John —
Leigh, a
young man destined to play a great part in the story of the village.
He married Elizabeth, the eldest Dingley daughter, and lived with
her family at Woolverton for some years. He bought the third of the
Shorwell manors, Northcourt, and it was he who built the present
house, one of the handsomest in the whole of the Island.
Each
of the manors had its own small church and it was the tiny church
built for the Northcourt family and their employees about the year
1100 that formed the earliest part, the north-east corner, of the
present parish church. This was later extended, and aisles were
added for the Woolverton and Westcourt families, so that by the end
of the fourteenth century there was the broad ‘three in one’
building we see today. The rarest feature of this development was
the magnificent stone pulpit, set unexpectedly in the middle of the
church, with a doorway for the preacher cut through one of the
pillars.
It
was at this stage that the walls were decorated with paintings, two
of which survived until the middle of the nineteenth century. The
picture of the Last Judgment over the south entrance was
obliterated, but over the north door there is still to be clearly
seen a magnificent painting depicting the story of the whole life of
St Christopher. Completed by 1440, the mural is full of humour and
movement and it is not hard to imagine the gaiety and vitality of
the young artists who designed the lively cartoons surrounding the
central figure, the work of a brilliant master painter. |

This
Pulpit is unusual in that it is situated towards the west end of the
church, not near the altar, in fact the north door is just to the
left of the sketch out of view. It was built in 1440 at the same
time as the arcade, because the pier behind it has been constructed
with an entrance arch and staircase up to it. On the left hand side
of the Pulpit is an iron hour-glass stand, the hour-glass itself is
of a much later date. The Canopy is a good example of Jacobean
carving and has the date 1620 on the lower spandrels. (Drawings
are by
R Norton) |
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The
Font is almost identical in form to the capitals of the pillars and
therefore may be of a similar date. The cover would be of about the
same date as the pulpit canopy, about 1620, it is now surmounted by
a Holy Dove, but this may have originally been just a knob as a
finial. |
Later
on Sir John Leigh was a generous benefactor, making many valuable
gifts to the church. During his lifetime, windows were added to the
north-west corner, a spire with a weathercock bearing the date,
1617, a fine carved oak canopy above the pulpit, a beautifully
carved lid for the font, and an hour-glass to time the sermons, set
in an iron holder beside the pulpit. At the age of eighty-three Sir
John Leigh died and his great-grandson, a nine-month old baby who
died some days later was buried with him. The memorial on the north
wall of the church shows the old man facing, rather surprisingly,
away from the altar. Behind him is the kneeling figure of the tiny
boy, and as the verse underneath announces that great grandfather
has taken him to Heaven to ‘wait upon his age’, the memorial is
known as the Little Page. Another unusual memorial is the brass to
the memory of two wives of Barnabas Leigh, Sir John’s eldest son.
The first wife is depicted with her ‘fifteen hopefull children’,
the second, who had none, stands alone, but from her mouth come the
words, ‘Am I not more to thee than ten sons?’
The
church is rich in treasures telling the story of the benevolence
and interest of Shorwell people through the years. There are three
rare Bibles —
a
chained copy of the Great Bible printed in English in 1541 by order
of Henry VIII, a Vinegar Bible, and a Breeches Bible. Two charming
plaques to the memory of Elizabeth and Catherine Susanna Bull,
mentioned in the diary of Fanny Burney, are a reminder of the
wealthy family that came to Northcourt when the Leighs died out. So
great was the grief over Catherine Susanna that her ‘once happy’
father and sister built a temple to honour her in the grounds of
Northcourt.
General
Sir James Willoughby Gordon, a later owner of Northcourt, though
secretary to the ‘noble Duke of York who had ten thousand men’
loved carving better than fighting. The poppyheads in the church are
his work, and also the small altar on the south side of which he
carved the four evangelists. This altar has travelled widely, for it
was made as a desk and used by the General for the writing of
dispatches in the field during the Peninsular War.
A more recent addition to the church is the unusual roof
beam, with the ascended Christ as its central figure, Gabriel and
Michael on either side, and the ugly stone heads of death and sin
set down beneath their feet. These figures, made about 1900, were
paid for by parishioners when Canon Jeans was the vicar.This
noted historian did much to beautify the church.
Shorwell
people have a great sense of history and intend that future
generations shall have a beautiful and well-maintained heritage. |
Some
are engaged in embroidering exquisite kneelers for the church, and a
parish record book is being made with descriptions of significant local
events and thumbnail sketches of the villagers. It tells how the village
pound, near Westcourt, was restored in 1951, how the school, given by Lady Mary Gordon of Northcourt, celebrated
its centenary, and what dismay there was when the school had to be closed
in 1971.
This is a busy,
happy community, with flourishing church, chapel, Autumn Club for the
elderly, Youth Club for the up-and-coming, drama, music, children’s and
adult organisations, something for everyone. Shorwell is still small
enough to retain its family atmosphere, and neighbours know and care about
each other. Small wonder that a resident, appreciative of the beauty of
his surroundings and the kindliness of the people, was heard to quote,
“All this and Heaven too?”
Brighstone
and Shorwell
1 August 2005 |